LayeringSome plants layer themselves naturally; however, sometimes plant propagators assist the process. Layering is enhanced by girdling the stem where it is bent, by wounding one side of the stem or by bending it very sharply. The rooting medium should always provide aeration and a constant supply of moisture. Tip layering. Dig a hole 3 to 4 inches deep. Insert the shoot tip and cover it with soil. The tip grows downward first, then bends sharply and grows upward. Roots form at the bend and the re-curved tip becomes a new plant. Remove the tip layer and plant it in early spring or late fall. This method is successful with purple and black raspberries and trailing blackberries. Simple layering. Bend the stem to the ground. Cover part of it with soil, leaving the last 6 to 12 inches exposed. Bend the tip into a vertical position and stake in place. The sharp bend will often induce rooting, but wounding the lower side of the branch or loosening the bark by twisting the stem may help. This method is successful with rhododendron and honeysuckle. Compound layering. This method works for plants with flexible stems. Bend the stem to the rooting medium as with simple layering, but alternately cover and expose stem sections. Wound the lower side of the stem sections to be covered. This method is successful with heart-leaf philodendron and pathos. Mound (stool) layering. Cut the plant back to 1 inch above the ground in the dormant season. Mound soil over the emerging shoots in spring to enhance their rooting. This method is successful with gooseberries and apple rootstocks. Air layering. Air layering is used to propagate some indoor plants with thick stems or to rejuvenate them when they become leggy. Slit the stem just below a node. Pry the slit open with a toothpick. Surround the wound with wet, unmilled sphagnum moss. Wrap plastic or foil around the sphagnum moss and tie it in place. When roots pervade the moss, cut the plant off below the root ball. Use this method with dumbcane and rubber tree, for example. |