Seeds

Seed Scarification. involves breaking, scratching or softening the seed coat so that water can enter and germination can begin.

Seeds are filed with a metal file, rubbed with sandpaper or cracked with a hammer to weaken the seed coat prior to planting. Seed scarification can also be accomplished using hot of water (170 to 212F); the seeds are left to soak in the water as it cools for 12 to 24 hours before planting.

Another scarification procedure that is usually successful uses sphagnum moss or peat moss. Thoroughly wet the moss and squeeze out excess water. Mix seed with the sphagnum or peat and place in a plastic bag. Use a twist tie or rubber band to secure the top and put the bag in a refrigerator. Temperatures ranging from 35 to 45 F. (2 to 7 C) are effective, and most refrigerators operate in this range. Check the bag periodically; if there is condensation on the inside of the bag, the process will probably be a success. After10 to 12 weeks, remove the bag from the refrigerator and plant the seeds in pots to germinate and grow. Handle the seeds carefully; often, small roots and shoots are emerging at the end of the stratification period and care must be taken not to break these off.

Seeds of most fruit and nut trees can be successfully germinated using these procedures. Peach seeds should be removed from the hard pit. Care must be taken when cracking the pits as any injury to the seed itself can provide an entrance for disease organisms.

Starting Seeds. Media. A wide range of materials can be used to start seeds, from straight vermiculite or mixtures of soil less artificial media to the various amended soil mixes. With experience, you will learn what works best under your conditions. Always keep the desirable qualities of a germinating medium in mind. The medium should be rather fine and uniform, yet well-aerated and loose. It should be free of insects, disease organisms and weed seeds. It should also be low in fertility, low in soluble salts, and capable of holding and moving moisture by capillary action. One medium with these qualities is a combination of one-third sterilized soil, one-third sand or vermiculite or perlite, and one-third peat moss.

The importance of using a sterile medium and container cannot be over emphasized. The home gardener can sterilize a small quantity of soil mixture in an oven. Place the slightly moist soil in a heat-resistant, covered container or pan in an oven heated to 250 F. Using a candy or meat thermometer, make sure the mix reaches a temperature of 180 F for at least one-half hour. This process typically produces very unpleasant odors. Avoid overheating as this can be extremely damaging to the soil. This treatment should prevent damping-off and other plant diseases as well as eliminate potential plant pests. Wood or plastic growing containers and implements should be washed to remove any debris, then rinsed in a

Containers. Wooden or plastic flats and trays can be purchased or can be made from scrap lumber. A convenient size is about 12 to 18 inches long, 12 inches wide and about 2 inches deep. Leave cracks about 1/8 inch between the boards in the bottom or drill a series of holes for adequate drainage.

Flower pots of clay or plastic can also be used. You can make your own containers for starting seeds by recycling cottage cheese containers or using the bottoms of milk cartons, bleach containers or pie pans, as long as proper drainage is provided.

Numerous types of pots and strips made of compressed peat for starting seeds are also on the market. Plant bands and plastic ell packs are also available. Each cell or minipot holds a single plant; this reduces the risk of root injury when transplanting. Peat pellets, peat or fiber-based blocks and expanded plastic foam cubes can also be used for seeding. In these cases, the growing medium itself forms the container unit.

Seeding. The proper time to sow seeds for transplants depends on when plants can be safely moved out-of-doors. This period may range from 4 to 18 weeks prior to transplanting, depending upon the speed of germination, the rate of growth and the cultural conditions provided. A common mistake is to sow the seeds too early and then attempt to hold the seedlings back under poor light or improper temperature ranges. This usually results in tall, weak and spindly plants that do not perform well in the garden.

After selecting a container, fill it to 3/4 inch from the top with the moistened medium you have chosen. For very small seeds, at least the top 1/4 inch should be a fine, screened mix or a layer of vermiculite. Firm the medium at the comers and edges with your fingers or a block of wood to provide a uniform, flat surface.

For medium-to-large seeds, make furrows about 1 to 2 inches apart and 1/8 to 1/4 of an inch deep across the surface of the container using a narrow board or pot label. Good light and air movement results from sowing in rows, and if damping off fungus appears, there is less chance of its spreading. Seedlings in rows are easier to label an handle at transplanting time than those that have been sown in a broadcast manner. Sow the seeds thinly and uniformly in the rows by gently tapping the packet of seed as it is moved along the row. Lightly cover the seed with dry vermiculite or sifted medium if they require darkness for germination. A suitable planting depth is usually about twice the diameter of the seed.

Do not plant seeds too deeply. Extremely fine seeds, such as petunia, begonia or snapdragon, are not covered; instead, they are lightly pressed into the medium or watered-in with a fine mist spray. If these seeds are broadcast, strive for a uniform stand by sowing half the seeds in one direction and the other half in the opposite direction.

Large seeds are frequently sown into some sort of a small container or cell pack, which eliminates the need for early transplanting. Usually two or three seeds are sown per unit and later thinned to allow the strongest seedling to grow.

Seed Tape. Most garden stores and seed catalogs offer indoor and outdoor seed tapes. Seed tape has precisely spaced seeds enclosed in an organic, water-soluble material. When planted, the tape dissolves and the seeds germinate normally. Seed tapes are especially convenient for tiny, hard-to-handle seeds. However, tapes are much more expensive per seed. Seed tapes allow uniform emergence of seedlings, eliminate overcrowding of seedlings and permit sowing perfectly straight rows. The tapes can be cut at any point for multiple row plantings, and thinning is rarely necessary.

Watering. After the seed has been sown, thoroughly moisten the planting mix. Use a fine mist spray or place the containers in a pan or tray with an inch of warm water in the bottom. Avoid splashing or excessive flooding, which might displace small seeds. When the planting mix is saturated, set the container aside to drain. The soil should be moist but not wet.

Ideally, seed flats should remain sufficiently moist during the germination period without having to add water. One way to maintain moisture is to slip the entire flat or pot into a clear plastic bag after the initial watering. The plastic should be at least 1 to 1 1/2 inches from the soil. Keep the container out of direct sunlight or the high temperatures may harm the seeds. Many home gardeners cover their flats with panes of glass instead of a plastic sleeve. Be sure to remove the plastic bag or glass cover as soon as the first seedlings appear. Surface watering can then be practiced if care and good judgment are used. Problems related to hand watering are lack of uniformity, over watering and drying out.

Temperature and light. The last item, but by no means the least important, is temperature. Since most seeds germinate best at an optimum temperature that is usually higher than most night time temperatures, special warm areas are often necessary.

After germination and seedling establishment, move the flats to a light, airy and cool location. Temperatures should range from 55 to 60 F. at night and 65 to 70 F. during the day. This prevents soft, leggy growth and minimizes disease problems. Some crops, of course, may germinate or grow best at different temperatures and must be handled separately from the bulk of the plants. Seedlings must receive bright light after germination. If possible, place them in a window facing south.

If a large, bright window is not available, place the seedlings under a fluorescent light. Use two 40-cool white fluorescent tubes or special plant growth lamps. Position the plants 6 inches from the tubes and keep the lights on them for about 16 hours each day. Raise the lights as the seedlings grow.

Transplanting Young Seedlings. The ideal time to transplant young seedlings is when they are small, and there is little danger from setback. This is usually about the time the first true leaves appear on the trees. To transplant, carefully dig the small plants up with a knife or wooden plant label. Let the group of seedlings fall apart and pick out individual plants. Gently ease them apart in small groups; this makes it easier to separate individual plants. Avoid tearing roots in the process.