Melons

• Light: Sunny
• Soil: Sandy, well-drained with moderate organic matter
• Fertility: Medium
• pH: 6.0 to 7.5
• Temperatures: Hot (70 to 85 degrees F.)
• Moisture: Average; dry toward maturity

• Planting: Seed after all danger of frost is past and when soil warms, or begin transplants in peat pots 3 to 4 weeks sooner.
• Spacing: Muskmelon - hills 24 to 36 inches X 60 to 90 inches; watermelon - hills 6 to 8 feet apart
• Hardiness: Very tender annual
• Fertilizer needs: Heavy feeder; use a starter solution for transplants and side-dress with nitrogen when vines begin to run; late-maturing varieties may need some side-dressing at fruit sets.

Muskmelons and watermelon are warm-season crops that require a long growing season of 80 to 100 days from seed to fruit. At present, most varieties are not well-suited to small gardens because of space requirements. However, newer bush varieties are being developed for use in small gardens.

Melons can be produced from transplants or planted directly. Those grown from transplants can be harvested as much as 2 weeks earlier than melons grown directly from seed. Plant or transplant muskmelon in rows 5 feet apart with hills spaced every 2 to 3 feet and with 2 or 3 plants per hill. Watermelon hills should be 6 to 8 feet apart and rows should be 7 to 10 feet apart if a path is desired between rows. Seed should be sown 1 inch deep after danger of frost has passed, and soil is warm.

Muskmelons and watermelons are well-suited for growing on black plastic mulch. The black plastic readily absorbs heat, allowing the soil to warm quickly. It also helps keep soil moisture levels from fluctuating and is very effective in controlling weeds, thus decreasing labor.

Male and female flowers are separate on the same plant. Bees must carry pollen from flower to flower to ensure good fruit. Use insecticides in late evening to prevent killing bees.

Melon plants can be trained in rows for easy harvesting. Use of a trellis allows closer spacing (rows 3 feet apart), but each trellised melon must be supported by a sling made of material that dries quickly to prevent rot. Old nylon stockings, cheesecloth and other net-like materials make good fruit slings. Large watermelons should probably not be trellised at all since the weight of the fruit, even if supported, would likely damage the vine.

Common Problems

• Diseases: Bacterial wilt (spread by cucumber beetles); Fusarium wilt; leaf spot; powdery and downy mildews; alternaria blight; nematodes
• Insects: Cucumber beetles; pickleworms; squash vine borer; squash bug
• Cultural: Poor flavor and lack of sweetness (due to poor fertility, low levels of potassium, magnesium or boron, cool temperatures, wet weather, poorly adapted variety, loss of leaves from disease, picking unripe melons); cracks or splits in fruit (heavy rain when melons are ripening may cause some of the fruit to split open); rotten spots on bottom of fruit (fruit in contact with soil may develop rotten spots or damage by insects; place a board or a few inches of light mulch material, such as sawdust or straw, beneath each fruit when it is nearly full-sized).

• Days to maturity: 70 to 130
• Harvest: Muskmelons are harvested at full-slip; for example, when the stem easily separates at the point of attachment. Crenshaw, honeydew and casaba melons are cut off after they turn completely yellow; these melons will rot if left on the ground too long. For watermelons, become familiar with the variety being grown to determine the best stage for harvesting. The best indicator is a yellowish color on the underside where the melon comes into contact with the ground. A dead tendril or curl near the point where the fruit is attached to the vine is used by some as an indicator that the fruit is ready for harvest. You can also thump the fruit, listening for the dull sound of ripe fruit rather than a metallic sound; however, this technique takes practice. If you have just a few fruit, it is probably wise to use all of the above techniques before deciding to harvest.
• Approximate yields: (per 10 foot row) 8 to 40 pounds
• Amount to raise per person: 10 to 15 pounds
• Storage: Medium-cool (40 to 50 degrees F), moist (80 to 85 percent RH) conditions
• Preservation: Cool, moist storage; muskmelons can be frozen

Bitter Melon

• Description. The bitter melon, a member of the squash family, has a taste similar to bland squash but more sour. It's shaped like a cucumber with light green skin but heavily warted. It is widely grown in tropical countries where young fruits are used as cucumbers.
• Culture. It is similar to cantaloupe.
• Selection. The flesh is silvery green with pale brown seeds when ripe.

• Description. The casaba is a winter melon variety with a globular shape and pointed at the stem end. The rind is chartreuse yellow with longitudinal wrinkles but without netting. Flesh is creamy white and juicy. It averages 4 to 7 pounds.
• Culture. It is similar to cantaloupe.
• Selection. Flesh should be soft, creamy white, sweet and juicy. Ripeness is indicated by a yellow rind color and slight softening at the blossom end.

• Description. The crenshaw has a rich, golden-pink flesh and is glove-shaped and pointed. It has a slightly wrinkled stem end and averages 4 to 6 pounds. The skin is golden at the peak of ripeness.
• Culture. It is similar to cantaloupe.
• Selection. Melons are round at the base coming to a point at the stem end. They have a gold and green rind that is smooth with no netting and little ribbing. When ripe, the rind begins to soften at the large end. At full maturity the skin turns golden, and the fruit produces a rich melon aroma.

• Description. The winter melon, grown for its thick white flesh, is used for Chinese-style soup and cooking. There are two types round and oblong. Fruit range from 8 to 12 pounds.
• Culture. This warm weather, vining crop is grown as watermelon.