Vermicomposting

Because worms consume their own weight in soil and organic matter each day, leaving behind the richest and most productive compost known - castings.

Vermicomposting is the process of using red wiggler or brown-nosed worms and microorganisms to convert food scraps into dark, earthy smelling, nutrient-rich humus. It is an interesting year-round activity for people at home or in classrooms, and provides a composting option for residents of apartments and homes without large backyards. When properly managed, vermicomposting produces no objectionable odors. It can even be done right in the kitchen!

Home worm composting is done in a sturdy container with a lid and air holes. The bin is filled with moist "bedding," such as shredded newspaper, to provide a dark, damp environment that worms desire. Red wiggler or brown-nosed worms (not night crawlers or earth worms) are added and food scraps are buried in the bedding.

The worms do the REST!

The tools you need for worm composting are: a plastic container that is not clear (worms do not like light), newspapers to shred and, of course, the worms.

Shred the newspapers.

Pour enough water into the container to make each strip of paper damp. You must not have any water sitting in the bottom of the container.

Put the bag of worms into the container and cover the worms with the shredded newspaper.

Put the food that you will be feeding the worms into the container, and then cover the food with dry shredded paper.

Put the top back on the container, and keep it in a dry, cool place. Not outside during the summer or winter. If you feel your worms might need additional air, cut a hole in the plastic container, and glue some pantyhose over the hole.

It will take about 90 days for the worms to make compost (worm casting) out of all the paper and food that you place into the container. The compost is very rich, and must be mixed into the soil for your worms.

What do worms need for successful vermicomposting?

• Moderate Temperatures
• Moisture
• Ventilation
• Darkness

• Potato peels
• Oak leaves
• Grapefruit and orange peels
• The bedding in the bin
• Outer leaves of lettuce and cabbage
• Apple peels and cores
• Plate scrapings and leftovers
• Egg Shells
• Coffee grounds and filters
• Celery Ends

• Meat
• Dairy products
• Bones
• Oil/sauces

Worm casting are very nutrient-rich, so use them sparingly. Although worm castings can be used in the same ways as yard trimmings compost, they are so rich that they should be used in smaller amounts.

POTTING MIXES - worm castings make an excellent addition to a homemade or commercial potting mix. Mix one part of worm casting with three parts of a favorite potting mix. Equal amounts of worm castings, peat moss, perlite and sand or garden soil also make a good potting mix.

TRANSPLANTS - when transplanting plants into the garden from potted plants or flats, work a handful of worm compost into the hole before planting.

AMENDING PLANTING BEDS - spread 1/2 to 1 inch of casting and incorporate into the soil with a fork or spade.

SIDE DRESSING FOR HOUSE PLANTS OR GARDEN PLANTS - Spread 1/2 to 1 inch of castings around established plants and scratch into the soil with a trowel.

CAUTION

Worm castings are not recommended for seed beds or flats. It is not recommended to use homemade worm castings for starting seeds. Since worm bins do not get hot, it is common for the seeds of tomatoes and other plants to survive the composting process and resprout. In addition, when worm castings are used in outdoor seed beds, birds may disturb the sprouting seeds while hunting for worms and worm eggs in the castings.

Worm castings are also not recommended for mulching. Worm casting are too nutrient-rich to use as mulch on outdoor plants; they tend to dry out and the nutrients are wasted. Using worm castings to mulch house plants can result in fruit fly problems.